Tuesday, April 02, 2019

WE GET WET

NOTE: I just reviewed my last post and can't figure out how the formatting got so messed up, with pics down the left and text to the right (and not synced properly either).  That's not the way I composed it.  Hopefully, this one won't go the same way.

Tuesday, Sept 4, 2018    Off to Kyoto in the path of Typhoon Jebi, with ominous warnings of the worst storm to hit in a long time.  The trip by bus will take about five hours with a couple of stops.  We tanked up at the buffet breakfast in case we get stranded somewhere.  This was typical of our breakfast fare.  Excellent pastries, some fruit and juice, pretty good sausage, the weirdly undercooked but still tasty bacon, and the runny eggs that just might have been out of a package.  They tasted good, so maybe not.  Strange texture, though, reminding me of an ostrich egg we had scrambled once.



The first part of our trip was along the coast of the Sea of Japan, and the weather was quite sunny and pleasant.  But, we soon started encountering ominous clouds.  We stopped for pit breaks and to get some gedunk fare.  Actually, the stuff they sell at the road stops seems quite high quality, although I wasn't tempted due to the prices.  Most everything they sell is packaged like a fancy gift, even for mundane items like pound cake.  After a while, the rain and wind started in earnest.


In the expected path of Jebi, all schools were closed and trains were not running.  Some roads were shut down, but ours were fairly good.  That said, the wind gusts were moving the bus around too much for my comfort and our excellent driver finally pulled off the main highway to a smaller, slower secondary road and we finished our drive into Kyoto on the same.  Our itinerary had us doing outside touring today, but the resourceful Yoshiko spent a long time on her phone as we drove along, and arranged to change to today our indoor activity that was scheduled for tomorrow.  So, we pulled up outside Marumasu Nishumuraya, a fabric stenciling atelier, to try our hands.  Unfortunately, Jedi was howling overhead, and the rather lengthy dash from the bus to the entrance got us thoroughly soaked.  After shedding all our rain gear, we initially settled into a large, windowed room with workbenches.  Almost immediately, the lights flickered and went out several times and the walls and roof seemed to be creaking from the typhoon overhead.  They were concerned that the windows might blow in, so we all moved to an adjacent room with no windows.  We got to work on our stencils.  Loni and I both did fishes, but Chuck did a very nifty one with two penguins which even impressed the staff.  We were encouraged to wear aprons to protect our clothes, and by the time I got to the box for mine, well . . .






The finished products.  Very serious artist's penguins, my fish and coral, and Loni's koi.


We wrapped our masterpieces and donned our gear for the run back to the bus.  If anything, the rain and wind was even heavier that when we arrived.  Our pants and shoes got sopped.  And, once again, my galoshes are resting quietly in my suitcase.

We got to the Westin Miyako Hotel in one piece and rested up a while before venturing out with the whole group for dinner at what Yoshiko called a tapas restaurant, but billed in our itinerary as a yakitori (skewered chicken) joint.  We again got wet, although not as bad as earlier.  The restaurant was packed and noisy with what seemed to be the iconic salary-men's night out.  Lots of drinking, shouting, and singing.  We had to split up into small groups and into little rooms not bigger than the table.  Ours was on the third floor, so a long way from the kitchen.  Even longer waits for service, so we were getting a bit glum, but the beer helped and the food, when it finally dribbled in, was pretty good.


We had pork/shrimp balls, asparagus wrapped in bacon, salad with tofu, mystery meat on a skewer, shrimp on a skewer, and ice cream.  The rain lessened, so we got back to the hotel only slightly wet.  The hotel seems to be 3 or 4 buildings connected by long hallways that go uphill and downhill.  Took forever to get to our rooms.  Luckily, one of the group discovered a shortcut that was not intuitive, so we saved some steps the next day.

We checked out the damage from Jebi.  The worst of it passed right over Kyoto, which lies just to the right of the indent cove in the map below.  The bottom right pic shows a freighter that broke loose from its moorings and crashed into the only bridge connecting Osaka International (which lies on a very low, man-made island) with the mainland.  The bridge was shut down for over a day, the airport was under two feet of water, thousands of would-be fliers stranded at the airport, and utter chaos with canceled flights.  Many in our group were due to fly out of Osaka in a couple of days (not us) and it was a mess trying to rebook flights.  More on that later.  Tomorrow, Hiroshima Mon Amour.




Tuesday, March 26, 2019

THERE'S GOLD IN THEM THAR BOXES!

Monday, September 3
Today we're on our own for lunch and dinner, so we tanked up at the very good hotel breakfast.  We are staying the day in Kanazawa, so no early bus ride.  After a leisurely feed, we got on the bus with the intrepid Otska-san at the wheel for the short, although tortuous, ride over to the 25-acre Kenroku-En -- the Garden of Six Qualities.  These are the gardens attached to the former Kanazawa Castle, which no longer exists.

Your genial guide with map. This place had endless beautiful views, but this was one of the nicest.  The bridge is a very popular spot for nearly every visitor to pose upon, and I was lucky to get this shot off before the adjacent hordes descended.



 A fast shuffle and we beat the horde.  Hey, we're tourists!


It takes a lot of work to keep places like this looking good.  With tight spaces like these, it's all manual labor.  We have no idea what these guys were sweeping in the river.

Couple of locals taking in the scene.  They only met 48 years ago!

Random scenes.  On this hot, humid day, all this shade was mighty welcome.

On most of the Collette tours we've taken, they throw in some special things that are out of the ordinary sightseeing.  We get to do one today.  Back on the bus and we drove to Kanazawa Katani for a lesson in decorating lacquer boxes with gold leaf.  Naturally, given my nature, I was dubious, but we all were won over.  We tried to listen closely to the instructions, but the accented English was pretty strong.  They pretty much pantomimed everything and it was just fine.  The first step is to pick out a stencil pattern from the boxes.

I chose a crane, along with a dot to represent the sun (not shown).  The first step is to peel the backing from the stencil and affix it to the lid of the box.  Then you take these absurdly thin sheets of gold foil and drape them over the stencil.  Using the little padded bag, you sort of mash-spread the gold onto the lid.  The instructors then took them away to do some magic to remove the excess glue and gold and fix the remainder with lacquer.  The result is quite lovely. 


The thin gold leaf was very tricky to work with.  The guy next to Chuck in the pic below had his take flight when a very small gust of wind blew in.  It floated up over his head and landed on Chuck's shoulder.  Don't know what the gals are laughing about;  they didn't share.  Loni's box came out nice.  Everyone was having a good time.  Kudos, Collette.

Next stop was the local fish market which smelled like the sea, not at all "fishy."  The place was huge, but we were only in the retail section, not the larger commercial one.  Yoshiko said that housewives come daily here to pick up something for dinner.  No weekly shopping.


Afterwards, the group split up for an afternoon of free time.  We went back to the hotel to dump our stuff, then headed out to walk, in the heat, a mile or so to what was billed as a Ninja Temple, complete with secret doors and rooms, and with a live-action performance.  After a few wrong turns, we found it, only to be told at the box office that it was by prior reservation only, and even though it was not full, we couldn't just buy tickets there.  Bah!    After deciphering the vagaries of the 7-11 ATM, to assuage our disappointment, we had to stop at the "German Bakery" along the way for fresh juices and a lemon muffin for Loni and a cream puff for me.  Take that, ninjas!

C&A opted to cab it back to the hotel, but we decided to walk and take in the Kanazawa Castle Park.  All that remains of the park are some storage buildings and soldiers quarters, plus a small part of the moat.  Still, it was quite beautiful and quite large.



I think Loni, with her iPhone, took the best pictures of the park:

The clouds were just starting to build, a reminder that we were due to experience Typhoon Jebi tomorrow.  Enjoy the scenery while we can!  We walked back to the hotel to collect C&A for dinner.  The hotel was right across the street from a Daiwa shopping store which had a huge food level in the basement.  Along the way we met up with Betty & Norman from Australia, so they joined us in picking out a place for dinner.  Alice was determined to have tempura shrimp, so we decided on a restaurant with the right pictures in the window.  Sadly, her shrimp came floating in a soup and was soggy.  Loni scored with Udon noodles in a "starch ginger" broth, filled with mushrooms and veggies, with a gelatin-like film over the top.  A stir with a spoon and it dissolved into the nice chicken broth underneath.  She said it was delicious.

Next up:  The Gathering Storm.
  Oooooooooh . . . .