OH, SHENANDOAH, YOU’VE LURAY’D ME IN

June 10-11, 2012

We stayed an extra day at the Charlottesville KOA, but just as a down day to do laundry, watch the Belmont, and plot our next few days accommodations.  On Sunday we left to make our way west to Skyline Drive, the northernmost end of the Blue Ridge Parkway that we traversed back in 2010 on our Southeast States trip.  We motored west on I-64, made what we thought was the proper turn to get on the Parkway, and Gertrude started acting up.  But I don’t want to make a U-turn, Gertie.  We had to pull over and reboot the gremlins out of her, and all was well thereafter.  At least she didn’t try to turn us onto railroad tracks like she did once before.  Actually, I’m pretty pleased with our Garmin, and have upgraded from Gertie I, seen here, to Gertie II, a 2555, which comes with lifetime map upgrades.  Woohoo!

We headed north on Skyline Drive, pointing towards the town of Luray.  Can’t say that this part of the BRP/SD road is all that interesting.  Unlike the southern part, the northern lacks the vistas of endless mountain chains that you see down there.  Still, we had some longer views.  Mostly, however, we had a lot of foliage on both sides which blocked any view at all.

Occasionally, a tunnel would pop up for interest, and there was one park service stop at the Byrd Visitor Center where there was a small museum dedicated to the Shenandoah National Park.  All in all, it was just a pleasant drive without the wow factor.

We made the town of Luray in the mid-afternoon, and pulled into the Country Waye campground which, at $50 (!!!) per night is probably the most expensive place we have stayed when out in “the sticks.”  Only our D.C. campground was more expensive.  I have to say, however, that the place had a quiet charm that was quite restful.  Not $50 bucks worth of restful, but pretty nice.

Our pad was at the beginning of a downslope, so we had a pretty nice vista out the back, and the front was not bad either.  It definitely was weird having the scoot hang out in the air like that.  Loni made an enchilada casserole for dinner, a little beer, an evening walk around the grounds, played some gin rummy, and generally chilled in these very peaceful surroundings.

Next morning, with drizzles in the offing, we decided to keep the scoot racked and took the rig to see the Luray Caverns.  This place was spectacular.  I rate it as one of the high points of our many trips and, if you’re anywhere close, you definitely have to check it out.  Carlsbad Caverns beats it for size and huge formations, but nothing tops it for the intricacy and beauty of its “mites and tites.”  My little camera (Canon S95) doesn’t do it justice, but these shots will give a taste (I took over 100 shots).

Here’s Loni as we were beginning the tour.

I thought these were two of the most spectacular formations.  I love the light through the “drapery.”

All sorts of fantastical formations seemed to be around each turn of the path.

At several places there were pools of absolutely still and clear water that reflected the overhanging ‘tites.  Every thing you see below in the bottom half is a reflection.  Way cool!

More nifty stuff.  That same cone as seen from below is in the collage above.

One of the more, ah, unusual things in the cave was the organ that used stalagmites as pipes.  Yup, they actually play the thing, or at least 37 notes, by gently hitting certain of the mites.  When we were there, I recorded what we heard, but it was so soft that it didn’t come out all that well.  I Googled the organ, and found this recording that sounds much better.  The lower right in the collage below shows the mechanism attached to the ‘tites.

On the way out we passed one last feature:  the “wishing well” where visitors throw in their coins.  They even keep a tally on the annual take!  The upper right photo shows the most whimsical formation – the “fried eggs.”

Across the parking lot from the caverns entrance was a (from the outside) nondescript auto museum.  As the entry fee was part of our caverns ticket, we decided to go in.  Am I ever glad we did.  I like auto museums.  Here in L.A. we have one of the best, the Peterson.  So, I wasn’t expecting much here in the Shenandoah Valley.  Wrong again, Sherlock.  They had some of the niftiest cars I’ve ever seen, all in absolutely superb condition.  Again, here’s just a taste.  DO take in this exhibition if you have any interest in historical cars.

Good night!  That Benz IS automotive history.  I loved the wood on this one below.

I also liked the fact that they grouped cars together for comparison, like this 1915 trio:  Dodge, Ford, and Chevrolet (front to rear).

One of the most impressive was this exquisite Hispano-Suiza.  Was there ever a more graceful hood ornament?  Puts the Rolls’ “Spirit of Ecstasy” to shame.

After all of this, we didn’t even mind the drizzle as we went back to the park for the evening.  We had thought about taking in a local baseball game, but the moisture wimped us out.  There’s an attraction, however, to sitting in the rig, windows open, on a warm night with a gentle rain tapping on the roof.  Life could be a lot worse.