BY THE SEA, BY THE SEA

(Actual Date: Sept. 8)  Today we were going to follow the sea up the East Neuk (“nook”) coastline, the most northerly portion of the Firth of Forth, to end up at St. Andrews so Alice could see one of the ancient golf courses.  Our first stop was to be Arberdour Castle & Gardens but it was closed for repairs for another week.  That’s the first site of the trip not to be open.  East Neuk is part of what is known as the Kingdom of Fife, so-called because Dunfermline in Fife used to be the capital of Scotland and is the burial place of many kings and queens and thus was frequented many times by Royals.  There is a series of small coastal towns that are picturesque, so we planned to just hop from one to another.
Earlsferry was the first, and by accident (and a series of road closures) we found our way to a park/promontory overlooking the town and bay.

Just behind where Loni and Alice are sitting was the ruins of an ancient chapel, allegedly 11th century, that had been restored (not too successfully, it appears) in the 1800’s.

Pittenweem was the next town in the string.  There’s not much of historical significance in any of these towns, but they were very pleasant to stroll about.  Here’s the main drag along the harbor.

These towns are working fishing towns and the harbors are active and colorful.


Whimsy is alive and well in Pittenweem.

The last village in the string, and the most picturesque, was Crail.  The town has an ancient history. It was well settled by the 800s and was a thriving town by the 1100s.  Crail was made a royal burgh by Robert the Bruce in 1310.  This view is looking down to the high-walled harbor.

Back street.  I felt just like the old gent, on occasion.

The town is full of photo-op houses and pieces of same.

We left Crail and drove due north to St. Andrews and it’s once huge and magnificent cathedral.  When consecrated in 1318, it was the largest building in Scotland.  The West front, which was the main entrance and the most impressive façade, was first completed in 1272 and was promptly blown down in a fierce storm.  The second try was a bit more successful, and was seen by King Robert I (the Bruce) during the consecration, but it burned down in the great fire of 1378.  The repairs weren’t completed until the installation of the roof in 1416.  Sadly, all that’s left today are skeletal walls that only hint at the former grandeur of this truly huge edifice.  Here’s looking from the west side (left).  Note the Rule Tower in the rear at right.  More on that later.

In the 8th century, the king of the Picts founded a church dedicated to St. Andrew (brother of Peter) on this site.  Andrew was adopted as the patron saint of the Picts, and later of Scotland.  The saltire (X-shaped cross) that adorns the modern Scottish flag is his symbol.  The Scottish Reformation was the undoing of the cathedral.  Inspired by a fiery speech preached by John Knox in the local parish church, the townspeople attacked and “cleansed” the cathedral of “idolatry” in 1559.  Abandoned in 1561 in favor of that same parish church, the cathedral fell into ruins.  Burial grounds encroached part of the formerly covered spaces.

The best vantage point to get the lay of the land is from the top of the Tower of the 12th century Church of St. Rule.

The tower is just over 110 feet high, with a very tight spiral staircase of 151 stairs that set off both claustrophobia as well as acrophobia as I climbed it.  But the views were worth it.  If you look beyond the top of the left twin tower you see a little stubby tower sticking up at the end of the cove.  That’s the site of St. Andrew’s Castle.


At the top.  Somehow, this tower just didn’t feel safe.  Maybe the fact that it’s nearly 900 years old has something to do with it.

After we climbed down, we strolled over to the nearby St. Andrew’s Castle, former home to the most senior bishops and archbishops of Scotland.  The castle was started in the late 1100’s, and was severely damaged in the 1500’s, and fell into disrepair.


After this we walked around town for a while.  It’s a university town, with lots of shops and eateries, one of which had a banner pronouncing that “Wills and Kate met here!”  That would be Prince William for us commoners.  Had a better than expected lunch at a place called the Glass House at near-student prices.  Even “cheap” food is prepared with care here.  I had a tomato soup appetizer with a main of penne with sausage and chorizo in a light cream sauce.  Excellent deal for L6.95.  We then drove around trying to find some appropriately old golf course for Alice, and settled for one of dubious distinction.  Oh well, at least we were there.