Down in these parts there are two big “drives:” the Ring of Dingle and the Ring of Kerry. The latter is the more famous, but many guidebooks think the Dingle is the more scenic. As we found out, both are spectacular. Dingle and Kerry are two peninsulas that stick out from the southwest end of Ireland. First, however, we fortified with Gerry’s famous breakfasts. Loni had potato waffles and three rashers of bacon; I got along with cereal, yoghurt, porridge, bacon and waffles. Oooh.
Our first stop was at a laundry in Tralee. No self-serves here; you drop off a bundle of wash and it is cleaned and pressed when you pick it up at the end of the day. Our biggest problem was in finding the place (several block circlings) and then finding a sidewalk to park on while the girls ran in with the goods. That done, we headed for Brandon Bay and Beach where we navigated the small roads and bridges and did a little sand walking.
Leaving the coast, we climbed up the Connair Pass to cross the mountains that run along the spine of the peninsula. The views were pretty nice, but a lot of moisture in the air really cut down the vistas.
Here’s what she’s looking at:
Once over the hill, we started a clockwise route around the tip. Whoa. Great stuff.
To the right above you can see the beginnings of the stone-walled fields. How would you like to (a) build those darn things or (b) climb up there and farm?
The Dingle Peninsula has its share of rugged coastline. I liked the jagged rocks in the back. This is Slea Head; from here you can view the Blasket Islands and Dunmore head, the westernmost point in Europe.
One of the big drawbacks to these areas are the legions of tour busses that grind around the loops. Fortunately, we heeded Rick Steve’s advice, and went counter to the usual rotation the tours take. Plus, we were in more of an off season, so the vehicle count was down. Still, there were those encounter moments.
By the way, that is the main and only road around the peninsula. I loved this next vista; it reminds me of Mont St. Michele in France.
I was really impressed by this next ruin, mostly because it wasn’t ruined at all. The darn thing has stood for 1300-1400 years, with no mortar or any other filler between the carefully placed stones. And it doesn’t leak! It’s the Gallarus Oratory.
Chuck trying an awkward selfie:
That little window is the only source of light other than the doorway. You can see how thick the walls are in the window opening.
We pose. Five antiquities.
It’s now late afternoon, and time to head back to Dingle for some dinner. Gerry recommended Sammy’s On the Beach at Inch Strand. But first, we had to do a bit of wandering in picturesque Dingle. Rick Steve is besotted with Dingle. It seems to be his quintessential Ireland. He could be right, it certainly is a pretty place, filled with dangerous shops that trap the unwary. I am ever vigilant to such things.
Sammy’s (no pics) was certainly OK, but nothing to write home about. I wasn’t whelmed by my seafood pasta in cream sauce, but Loni liked here tagliatelle with tomatoes, mushrooms, and arugula. Chuck and Alice did well with their crispy-skin duck. Back then to the B&B, just in time to watch the son ride off on his horse, and to settle down for the night. A fine day!
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