THE OTHER RING

Sept. 29, 2014
Today we’re off for the more famous Ring of Kerry, much longer in circumference but, as we shall see, we cut it short.  First thing, though, another of Gerrry’s breakfasts!  Just a bit of smoked salmon and scrambled eggs, with a porridge on the side.  Oh, yes.

Gerry regaled us at breakfast, in that wonderful brogue of his, with the story of when, in the ‘60’s, Robert Mitchum was in Dingle for filming a movie.  He was drinking heavily constantly, and one evening he was loaded while driving in a big American car and hit a group of cows, killing two.  The farmer was livid.  Mitchum soothed:  “Not to worry, I’m Robert Mitchum.”  The old farmer told him he didn’t care what his name was.  “Look at my cows!  They have names!”  Mitchum eventually paid up, probably at a premium.
Our first stop of the day was to retrieve our laundry from Tralee, so we zipped up north before doubling back to the Ring down through Killarney.  We were supposed to see a locally famous cottage at the “meeting of the Waters Bridge in a local park, but despite walking much farther than the sign promised, we never found the cottage and didn’t get close to the bridge before it started to sprinkle.  There’s another body of water on the other side, hence the name.  Not worth the effort, one of the few misses of the trip.


On our way, we did a little climbing up the mountains through Moll’s Gap, but the low cloud cover, mist, dim light, and high hedgerows made for poor photography.  We passed through Kenmare and started the clockwise loop along the Kenmare River.  A bit peckish, we stopped at the Parknasilla Hotel, a posh 19th century spot touted as a likely spot for a bit of tea and scones.  Looks (and guidebooks) can be deceiving.  The grounds were pretty enough (the mouth of the Kenmare is at the rear), and the entry and first room we passed through were quite nice.  That room was large, nicely appointed, with large windows to look out upon the lawns and river.  But we didn’t get placed there.  Our hostess kept going, through a second room filled with a noisy post-wedding party, and on to the far back of the joint to a less-than-charming and deserted room done all in, well, what color is it?  Even our faces have taken on the hue. This was taken at the end of our tea, the dry scones and solid-like-cold-butter clotted cream for which were easily the worst we had in all of Ireland.  Fah!  By the time of this photo, the wedding party had cleared out and we were isolated in banishment silence.  This is high on my “skip it” list.
Next stop on the Ring was Staigue Ring Fort, another impressive creation of mortarless stone.  It’s in the background, above and right of Chuck.

We did some clambering around and on the walls.  I’m surprised that you are free to go wherever you want, although I guess if this thing has survived two millennia of conflict and use there’s not much we could do to it.


Onward.  Up through the Coomakesta Pass and more big views, marred by the weather.

In need of fortification, we tried to find a chocolate factory that was recommended in one of our guidebooks.  The signs in this area are virtually incomprehensible, contradictory, and downright confusing.  We kept trying to follow what we thought was the way, but got hopelessly lost.
And then, totally by accident, we found it!  In the middle of, literally, nowhere.  The gal told us they weren’t permitted to place signs anywhere.

We loaded up on yummy selections.  They had a great sense of humor here, as is evidenced by the “control your kids” sign.  This was an excellent end to a somewhat frustrating day.  We lip-smacked our way along the road to dinner at Sol y Sombra, a tapas (!) restaurant in Killorglin, situated in a a converted church.  Very nice inside, and good food – especially the calamari and the super-light battered cod.  Fully recommended!  (Image from web)