We managed to hit Ireland in the week leading up to the All-Ireland (Irish) Football championship to be held next week-end. The locals are all up for it because Donegal is one of the two teams playing. Flags are flying everywhere, so we figured we’d better join ‘em.
Unfortunately, we didn’t realize that on the day of the match, we’d be down in the territory of the opposing team. Hmmmmm. Good thing they’re a bit more civilized here.
We started the day with a visit to Donegal Castle, situated at a bend in the River Eske. It was built by Red Hugh O’Donnell in 1474, and went through the usual cycle of attacks, disuse, crumbling, etc. It has been nicely restored, though, back in the ‘90’s.
The castle actually is in two parts: the original 1400’s part (left), and a 1700’s manor addition (right) built by the Brooks family, to whom the castle was given after the English takeover in the 1600’s. The old part is still pretty rough inside. One interesting feature is the right-turning spiral staircase, which is slightly tilted as well, all to make it easier to defend from above. Most of the populace was right-handed, thus it was more difficult for an attacker ascending the right-turning staircase to wield his weapon, and easier for the right-handed defender above. Another “feature” was the privy, with its, ah, “exit hole” structure designed so that marauding archers couldn’t shoot an arrow up your arse. Rough times.
The great hall in the newer wing is quite a sight, with its massive fireplace, bay window, and beamed ceilings.
View from the front of the castle looking out to the walls and guard house.
And the view of the River Eske within walking distance of the castle wasn’t bad either.
We then took off to Killybegs, west of Donegal, which is the largest fishing port in the northwest of Ireland. It was pretty quiet as this is a Sunday. About all we heard were gulls and the churchbells pealing in the distance.
I love the signage in Ireland. We didn’t park on the pier.
Our ultimate destination today is to be the Slieve League, the rugged coastline boasting the highest cliffs in all Europe, about 600 meters high. It’s located due west of Donegal, out at the end of the peninsula. Small roads get smaller, but the trip was worth it. Spectacular. You can drive your car a long way up the cliffs, but then a path takes you up, up, up to the best views. That’s the start of the path in the distance, well below us. I love the ferns and plants that grow in this bleak terrain.Once up to this level, the coastline is in view, albeit a little hazy today.
You can see the caves at sea level at the center of the picture. A big industry around here is tour boats that take you out to the base of the cliffs. A close-up of the same cave:
Things dropped off pretty fast just below where I’m standing. I didn’t go closer.
Another shot of the flora that grows in dense patches, widely dispersed:
I wish I could transplant that whole thing to my backyard. We spent about an hour up here, then hit the trail back down (Loni holding on to her little red hat for dear life in the wind).
Group selfie.
As I write this, much later in January, I’m so glad we did this when we did. My COPD is so bad now I never would have been able to see these things, just 4 months later.
Are we done yet? Heck no. We haven’t been shopping! This place was literally in the middle of nowhere, and the signage that supposedly would lead us to it was incomprehensible. We actually stumbled upon it after we had given up. Loni, of course, had to get something for grandbaby Isla.
We finished off the day by going a bit more north along the coast and seeing this huge promontory with a watch tower atop.
Then it was time to turn home, going over and through the mountains back to Donegal with gorgeous views like this. Again we thanked our lucky stars for the weather.
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